Trend | Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Legacy of All Ages Pink Carpets at Valentino

Trend | Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Legacy of All Ages Pink Carpets at Valentino


Information broke Friday by WWD that Dries Van Noten’s retirement was a one-two punch for trend, simply days after it was revealed that Pier Paolo Piccioli was leaving Valentino.

Whereas they’re shifting into totally different conditions, the development undoubtedly seems like a guard in luxurious — and a shift in priorities.

What impact did Piccioli have? To me, it ushered in a beautiful simplicity in trend, together with a beautiful sense of coloration, mega quantity and drama. It additionally introduced a brand new modesty to the pink carpet, providing ladies choices past the low-cut, high-cut, virtually nude appears which have historically dominated.

I keep in mind her first Valentino present as a solo act for Fall 2017. Everybody doubted whether or not he might run the home alone after turning into inventive director of girls’s collections at Dior following his eight-year design partnership with Maria Grazia Chiuri.

He proved he was as much as the duty, bringing Valentino right down to earth by ditching the over-the-top jewels he outlined within the period he was designing with Chiuri, and a powerful focus. As was establishing a contemporary ease with day put on.

One of many season’s most memorable items wasn’t a sublime night robe, dripping with embroidery—it was a pink pile-blend coat with a raw-edged hem, paired with pale pink satin pants and Worn with flat sandals. It was a breath of contemporary air.

Valentino RTW Spring 2017

Valentino, Spring 2017

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

The dichotomy of Valentino at Dior and Piccioli at Chiuri was fascinating to observe and inform the place the trade was headed, with Chiuri reinterpreting Dior classics and the proper salute to the extraordinary industrial success of collaborations with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and Piccioli. was on the way in which. Making an attempt to reside as much as the pure design and easy class that’s rooted within the Rome-based home, even when he wore streetwear with Vltn, and eventually, it appears, Mayhoola and Kering. I misplaced the assist of my bosses, who acquired 30 %. Valentino’s final 12 months.

“Easy would not need to be boring” was one thing Van Noten appreciated to say about his collections lately. However Piccioli performed a key position within the rise of the on a regular basis glamor pattern, bringing informal items into couture by, for instance, giving easy white shirts and shorts ball-gown-like glamour. Made sense of the gown.

His spring 2018 couture assortment was a bellwether, beginning with the opening look — a yellow felt coat with crisp tan trousers, a white tank and a splendidly unfussy camel by London milliner Philip Treacy. Feather hat. That season was a masterclass in elegant ease that I see in at this time’s collections (even Van Noten’s, really) with a dramatic, side-swept faille ruffle prime over paper bag waist pants, a ’60s bow-waist tunic or an opera. It appears to resonate once more. Coats over crisp pleated entrance pants show that, sure, easy would not need to be boring. (The coat was a glance Piccioli returned to time and again, most notably for Lily Gladstone’s Golden Globes.)

Models on the catwalk

Valentino spring 2018 couture

WWD

Models on the catwalk

Valentino spring 2018 couture

WWD

Models on the catwalk

Valentino spring 2018 couture

WWD

The feather ideas created a sparkle, and the feathers turned a signature for Piccioli from then on. It strikes me that Piccioli is an enormous motive we see marabou feather trim on shirts at JCrew. She began utilizing them casually in her spring 2019 assortment, and all of a sudden all the things had feathers.

Valentino RTW Spring 2019

Valentino, Spring 2019

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Her colorfulness and lyrical simplicity additionally had an affect on the pink carpet. Certain, she dressed Zendaya and Florence Pugh, however her appears for extra mature ladies specifically caught with me as a result of they defied the same old tropes of chiseled pores and skin, or this. All the pieces was hidden. (Dowdy is not a phrase you’d affiliate together with her, although it typically involves thoughts with Garvani’s pink carpet appears.)

Piccioli pioneered the facility and worth of dressing older ladies, casting then-75-year-old Lauren Hutton in her fall 2019 couture present.

Valentino Haute Couture Fall 2019

Valentino Haute Couture Fall 2019

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Range and inclusion had been values ​​she mirrored on the Valentino runways. After a misstep in spring 2016, when he and Chiuri went on a cultural tour of “Wild Africa” ​​with a handful of black fashions, he solid a then-record quantity for spring 2019 — 43 of 65. — for a set that reimagines the enduring white 1948. Cecil Batten {Photograph} by Charles James Couture. She included fashions of all sizes in her spring 2022 couture assortment and once more championed age variety in her fall 2022 assortment.

Models on the catwalk

Valentino Couture Spring 2019

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Piccioli additionally introduced these values ​​to the pink carpet.

Her search for Frances McDormand on the 2018 Met Gala (and the video posted by Vogue of her dancing with Piccioli) will go down in historical past as a watershed for my later-life confidence. The Oscar-winning actress was 60 years previous at the moment. She rocked a show-stopping turquoise cape and tracey feather headdress from the spring couture runway, and beloved sporting it a lot she mentioned she wished to be buried in it. Is not that what all of us dream of discovering in trend?

She additionally opted for Spring 2019 Valentino Couture for the Oscars, a pink felt short-sleeve robe paired with Valentino Acid Yellow Birkenstocks, the shoe collaboration that began the Haute Birkenstock pattern. Helped.

Frances McDormand at the 2019 Oscars

Frances McDormand on the 2019 Oscars.

Getty Photos

Not surprisingly, for her first Met Gala in 2022, Glenn Shut, then 75, additionally seemed to Valentino, in PP Pink, a scorching pink embroidered gown from Piccioli’s color-forward Spring 2022 assortment. Choosing a cape and pants, that served the large diva. -Dom

Viola Davis turned to Valentino for a showstopping white feather cape and robe to put on to the premiere of “Monster” on the Cannes Movie Competition final 12 months, writing on Instagram, “Felt like a queen.” And Meryl Streep was the image of chic ease at this 12 months’s Oscars in white night pajamas trimmed with Valentino feathers by Piccioli, who wore a really Miranda Priestly-looking customized black sequin skirt go well with to the Golden Globes.

Her designs for older ladies on the pink carpet had been distinctive in that they had been girlishly romantic, unabashedly ornamental and beneficiant sufficient that one must squeeze right into a spanx to suit into them. Piccioli made the pink carpet straightforward and enjoyable. He can be missed.

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